2012年12月7日星期五

Is Michael Kors Raf Simons' biggest fan? How designer's latest collection is heavily influenced by Dior's creative head

It seems more and more fashion designers are taking inspiration from other designers - referencing, an often-used euphemism for copying, is no longer just for fast-fashion chains like Forever 21 and Topshop.
Michael Kors, who just previewed his pre-fall 2013 collection, showed 36 outfits which had a strong Fifties vibe; a modern take on retro silhouettes.
However the designer included several looks that appeared to be heavily influenced by Dior (a fashion house steeped in Fifties silhouettes and retro sensibilities), and its new creative director, Raf Simons.
Flattering or faux pas? A Michael Kors' look from his new pre-fall collection (left) holds many similarities to Raf Simon's design from the Dior spring 2013 collection, which showed three months ago (right)
Flattering or faux pas? A Michael Kors' look from his new pre-fall collection (left) holds many similarities to Raf Simon's design from the Dior spring 2013 collection, which showed three months ago (right)
Flattering or faux pas? A Michael Kors' look from his new pre-fall collection (left) holds many similarities to Raf Simon's design from the Dior spring 2013 collection, which showed three months ago (right)
Look 15 from Michael Kors pre-fall 2013 collection was a tight black cap sleeve T-shirt paired with a billowing full skirt smattered with digitally printed roses. It looks much like one Mr Simons sent down the runway for Dior, three months earlier.
Raf Simons' signature: This T-shirt-and-a-big-skirt look is a signature of Dior's creative director Raf Simons, who created a similar look for his Jil Sander spring 2011 collection (pictured)
Raf Simons' signature: This T-shirt-and-a-big-skirt look is a signature of Dior's creative director, who created a similar look for his Jil Sander spring 2011 collection (pictured)
For Mr Simons' spring 2013 Dior ready-to-wear collection, a model wore a fitted black short-sleeve T-shirt and a billowing full skirt smattered with digitally printed roses.
This look, a tight-T-shirt-worn-with-a-big-skirt, is a signature Mr Simons, who designed similar looks for his Jil Sander spring 2011 collection.
The Michael Kors collection also referenced Mr Simon's penchant for peplum, both at Dior and when he was at Jil Sander.
 
Mr Kors showed black cigarette pants paired with a peplum-waisted jacket for pre-fall. Mr Simons played with this for his Dior 2012 couture show, as well as his Jil Sander 2011 spring collection.
During the Fifties, Dior's New Look defined the distinctive silhouettes and refined aesthetics of the age, with nipped waists, midi-length skirts, and form-fitted bodices.
Dior's timeless little black dress from that era, with off-the-shoulder asymmetry and knee length pencil skirt, was also referenced in the Michael Kors pre-fall collection.
However all this referencing it is certainly not a one way street.
Christian Dior's 2012 resort collection took inspiration from Michael Kors 2008 spring collection, showing a near identical color-block caftan.
While this blatant 'inspiration' is frowned upon by many, there are two law professors argue that copying can actually benefit the fashion industry and its consumers.
Christopher Sprigman, from the University of Virginia and Kal Raustiala, from the University of California-Los Angeles, challenge the assumption that copyright protection is better for business in their new book The Knockoff Economy.
They told TIME.com: 'It’s easy to recognize when you’ve been copied and feel like you’ve been ripped off.
zPeplum problem: Michael Kors (left) lastest pre-fall look is similar to Dior's 2013 spring collection (middle) and Jil Sander's 2011 spring collection (right), where a peplum-waisted jacket is paired with black cigarette pants
Peplum problem: Michael Kors (left) lastest pre-fall look is similar to Raf Simon's Dior 2013 spring collection (middle) and his Jil Sander 2011 spring collection (right), where a peplum-waisted jacket is paired with black cigarette pants
Peplum problem: Michael Kors (left) lastest pre-fall look is similar to Raf Simon's Dior 2013 spring collection (middle) and his Jil Sander 2011 spring collection (right), where a peplum-waisted jacket is paired with black cigarette pants

Peplum problem: Michael Kors' latest pre-fall look (left) is similar to Raf Simon's Dior spring 13' look (middle) and his Jil Sander spring 11' show (right), where a peplum-waisted jacket is paired with black cigarette pants
'[But] maybe you were part of building a trend, and that led to more sales for your item. The truth is a lot of people say, “Look. This is the nature of the business” or “It’s a good thing to be copied. And I’d be a lot more worried if I wasn’t being copied.”'
That added that copying helps to set trends.
Mutual fandom? Christian Dior's 2012 resort collection (left), took inspiration from Michael Kors 2008 spring collection (right), showing a near-identical color-block caftan
Mutual fandom? Christian Dior's 2012 resort collection (left), took inspiration from Michael Kors 2008 spring collection (right), showing a near-identical color-block caftan
Mutual fandom? Christian Dior's 2012 resort collection (left), took inspiration from Michael Kors 2008 spring collection (right), showing a near-identical color-block caftan
'We see a popular design copied and modified in a way that helps us to recognize that this is a trend,' said Mr Sprigman.
'Then, as the copying is done more and more and more, it helps to kill the trend: When the trend gets over-copied, the fashion-forward people drop it and move on to the next thing. Copying is actually the fuel that runs the fashion cycle.'

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